When discussing Hanfu, you might have heard of the “Jiaoling Youren (cross-collar right closure)” style. This refers to the distinctive overlapping collar and right-side fastening system of traditional Han Chinese garments, where the left lapel folds over the right side of the robe.
Meaning
“Jiaoling Youren” consist of two parts: “Jiaoling” and “Youren”. “Jiaoling” means the crossing collar, and “Youren” means the left side covering the right side and extend to the wearer’s right waist.
It’s not merely a style of Hanfu, most importantly, it’s a principle behind both making and wearing Hanfu. As a principle, “jiaoling youren” means if the collar is crossing, then you can only have the left side covered the right side and never do the opposite.
In ancient China, the right closure (youren) was regarded as orthodox, and all people under the jurisdiction of the Central Plains dynasties were required to follow this principle in their attire. If one failed to adhere to this, such as wearing garments with the left closure (zuoren), they would be seen as belonging to an ethnic minority group.
Appearance
In appearance, the front panels overlap at the chest, with the collar forming a ‘Y’-shaped crossing, thereby creating a ‘V’-shaped neckline.
Functionality
In terms of functionality, the crossover collar design fits snugly around the neck to provide warmth, while the adjustable degree of overlap allows it to adapt to different seasons (with less overlap in summer and more in winter).
Culture
In cultural terms, “Jiaoling Youren” embody the ancient Chinese principle of ‘right is supreme,’ a concept reflected in ancient China’s seating arrangements, ceremonial norms, architectural layouts, and spatial designs.
In conclusion, “Jiaoling Youren” served as both a practical design and a cultural symbol, historically distinguishing Han clothing from other ethnic styles.